Dan Tana's restaurant in Los Angeles has become an iconic dining institution, beloved by locals and celebrities alike. The story of its rise to fame is a testament to the power of reinvention and the enduring appeal of a humble, family-run business. This article explores the legacy of Dan Tana's, the man behind the restaurant, and the secrets to its enduring success.
Dan Tana's journey began in communist-ruled Yugoslavia, where his father was a political prisoner and a restaurateur. Despite his mother's wishes, Tana became a soccer star, touring Europe with Red Star Belgrade. His path eventually led him to Canada and then Los Angeles, where he managed a nightclub and launched an acting career with the help of Natalie Wood. It was in LA that he found his true calling as a restaurant owner.
The restaurant's early success can be attributed to a combination of factors. Tana's hiring of Mussolini's private chef, Dan Reeves, and Clarence Dan Martin, who funded the soccer league, set the tone for the restaurant's comfort food and Italian cuisine. A pivotal moment came in 1966 when a Los Angeles Times review praised the restaurant's mushrooms, leading to a surge in popularity. Tana's commitment to treating all customers equally, regardless of status, also contributed to its success. He refused to cater to celebrities, ensuring that doctors, lawyers, and teachers felt just as welcome as A-list stars.
Dan Tana's became a writer's haven, frequented by screenwriters, journalists, and renowned authors like Joan Didion and John Gregory Dunne. The restaurant's proximity to the Troubadour made it a hangout for up-and-coming rock musicians, who were often fed for free. Tana's generosity and humility earned him a reputation as a quiet power broker in Hollywood.
The restaurant's atmosphere, with its dim pink lights and red-and-white-checkered tablecloths, evoked a Sinatra-era simplicity. The food remained consistent over the years, with large portions and comfort food. Tana's refusal to expand or open second locations was a testament to his belief in the restaurant's originality and the importance of preserving its unique charm.
Today, Dan Tana's continues to thrive under the ownership of Mihajlo and Sonja Perenčević, friends of the late Tana. The restaurant's legacy is now preserved in a memoir, offering a glimpse into Tana's remarkable life and the secrets to his success. As the city of Los Angeles celebrates the World Cup, the Tana family reflects on their father's contributions to the sport and his enduring impact on the restaurant industry.
